260814 – Can-Can – Paris > words
Work takes me to Paris to view the new Paris shop on Rue Saint Honoré. As I sit at lunch in a 21st Century Paris I muse the Belle Epoque that continues to haunt the city. The tourist postcards gratify the nostalgia with early posters of the Can-Can, Jane Avril and Toulous-Lautrec.
160814 – Stuart Dandy – National Portrait Gallery, London > words
This morning we were in the Tudor Galleries this afternoon we are in with the Stuarts. Only one generation separates the Tudors from the Stuarts, the protestant from the Catholic but England had to do a lot of catching up between the two periods. The Renaissance had been in Europe for some time, both science and art had made huge leaps forward and along with this were changing social attitudes. Here this is all beautifully expressed through fashion.
160814 – Cut and Fold – National Portrait Gallery, London > words
The clothes of the Tudors posed many interesting problems. At one level clothes are a political armour with a strict hierarchy of colour and material used linked to status. At another they need to serve the basic function of keeping warm. The clothes often wool based, heavily embroidered and backed. When worn in multiple layers, these make for a stiff material that does not hold shape. The techniques used to achieve free movement are the cut, the fold, the hinge and to add volume. The sleeve for example uses many variations on the theme to both bend at the elbow and allow movement at the shoulder. These include adding volume to the area of movement, sleeves splayed from the elbow or shoulders puffed and ruched. Or by cutting slits and vents that allow movement and allow a stiff fabric to hold a double curve. The outer garments can often be heavy and course so the under laying garments are in softer cottons and linen. This develops into and aesthetic that pulls fine materials through the slits on the outer layers and is a technique unique to this period. It also makes for unique juxtapositions when using linen, leather, tapestry and fur. A wonderful way to spend the morning and the counter point will be the Stuarts planned for the afternoon.
280714 – Pattern Cutting – London > words
Project research, explorations in Henri Matisse paper cut period Henri’s ‘second life’. Screen shots unedited.
230614 – Vivienne Westwood – London > words
I start a new job today at Vivienne Westwood’s as Visual Merchandising Manager. This will be a change following the large corporate structure of my previous job.
250915 – Magnolia Pink - 100% Design, London > words
What Does The Colour of Your Brand Say – Talk at the 100% Design, London - Vivienne Westwood Magnolia Pink
Today I am giving a presentation at ‘100% Design’ Olympia. I have not given a formal presentation since teaching at Universities in the early 90’s so I felt the emotive mixture of excitement, nerves and the honor to have been asked to talk. The theme given for the presentation was 'What Does The Colour of Your Brand Say'. I chose the topic of the Magnolia Pink of Vivienne Westwood. During the mid nineties Vivienne was designing collections Vive La Cocotte, Vive La Bagatelle, Erotic Zones that recall the sense of faded grandeur from the Belle Epoch. The colour Magnolia Pink is both sensual, sexual and historically referential. The presentation elaborated on this theme. I was joined in conversation with Karen Haller, a colour psychologist and Fiona Humberstone, a Brand Colour Consultant and the presentation was chaired by Emily Hare from Contagious Magazine.