060716 – Valentino Elizabethan – Paris > words
Original Elizabethan clothes were heavy and stiff, they had two primary functions that of representing status and that of keeping warm. Layer upon layer were built up to keep out the English cold, with tapestried woollens over furs and cottons. Elizabethan clothes were often held together with lace or pins as buttons were mainly decorative. Tight fitting corsets made waists look as thin as possible and hips and shoulders were exaggerated in a form of power dressing. Intricate detail and needlework especially on the doublet, sleeves and collars was the norm. Satins, silks and velvets in gold, purple and crimson were also desirable among the Tudor elite. These were colours that ordinary people were not allowed to wear. Clothes had hierarchy and rank by order of law. (See Diary 160814 – Cut and Fold)
Due to the 400th year anniversary of Shakespeare’s death, Shakespeare has been a theme of many exhibitions and installations so far this year but none come close to the mastery of Valentino’s Elizabethan collection for Fall 2016 Couture. The language of ruffs, doublets, bodices, clerical robes and puffed sleeves has been given a soft, sheer 21st century interpretation by Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri. It is very difficult to reinterpret historical clothing made with a different purpose, material and function all of which are now so alien to the 21st century. However, the intricacies of Elizabethan detail work fits comfortably in the world of today’s couture. The soft ruffs, the sheer materials overlaid with intricate embroidery brought a new sexuality to the interpretation. Bare arms with light lace cuffs were particularly soft and feminine. The formal clerical robe with cut away shoulders, juxtaposed with lace and transparency allowing enough sensuality to enhance the female body with power and confidence. Elizabethan inspired men’s slit breeches here make a boyish figure. It was disappointing that there was not a reinterpretation of the cod-piece for 21st century woman, probably to political.
The Shakespeare quote woven into a lace blouse.
“Love me or hate me
both are in my favour.
If you love me,
I’ll always be in your heart,
but if you hate me,
I’ll always be in your mind.”